Coloring Grey Hair

Techniques and Hair Color Advice

The process of coloring grey hair can be challenging. And as the ratio of grey/natural hair shifts to a majority of grey hair, the challenge increases... or so it seems.

In reality, there are just new factors to consider when choosing and applying your hair color.

This page details the critical elements, as well as a few "insider tips" for success.

Grey Hair Considerations

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PREPARE YOUR HAIR
For best results (and to avoid common color mishaps), make sure your hair is ready for the color.

Minerals from water, chlorine from swimming pools, and build-up from styling products can all impede the haircolor formula's ability to do it's thing.


Use Joico K-Pak Chelating Shampoo before coloring to help eliminate these impurities.

Loss of Pigment
As we mature, pigment diminishes from both our hair and skin. This affects hair coloring in two ways. First, because there is little or no pigment remaining in the hair, the color you choose must contain some degree of gold (or warm) pigment. Not so much that the color is brassy, but definitely avoid ash tones.

Because the skin also loses pigment, choose a hair color that is lighter than your previous natural color. A very dark shade on paler skin can appear harsh. Darker shades also show re-growth sooner and the contrast between hair and scalp can make hair appear thinner.

Tenacity/Change of Hair Texture
You've likely noticed that grey hair is of a coarser texture than your original strands. And the tenacious quality not only affects the way your hair behaves (or doesn't), but also the way it takes color.

The outside (cuticle) layer of rebellious grey's is tightly sealed and not at all receptive to the invasion of artificial pigments. If when coloring grey hair, you find it particularly stubborn, treat it before coloring with straight 20 volume peroxide for 5-10 minutes. This will open the cuticle layer and prep it to receive pigment. Rinse the peroxide and proceed with your mission.

Choosing A Hair Color

Naturally pigmented hair already contains some degree of each primary color, and those variables must be considered for good results. Coloring grey hair, on the other hand, is like adding pigment to a blank slate.

Think of adding a pure, bright red pigment to a white sheet of paper. What do you get? Yup. That's right... pink. Or perhaps violet, indigo or a vibrant plum? Safe to say that most folks covering grey are not in pursuit of such a hue.

Neutral tones make a great base to provide coverage, then add a red or gold tone with that to achieve a natural looking hair color with depth and dimension.

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Application

Divide the hair in quarters by creating a center parting all the way down to the nape and another across from ear to ear. Apply the color in the area with the most grey first. Work in small (half inch) sections. Go over the entire front hairline with any remaining color after you've applied it everywhere else.

Processing

When coloring grey hair, I generally exceed the recommended processing time. You can't go wrong by leaving it on a touch longer.

It's critical that you use a permanent color for adequate coverage when coloring grey hair. Semi-permanent haircolor, or even permanent color with any less than 20 volume peroxide will merely blend grey. Which is fine if that's all you want to achieve.

Extra tenacious hair can be bagged up and hit with a blowdryer and diffuser to add heat to the process. At the very least, avoid processing in a cool or drafty room when coloring grey hair.

Maintenance

Use a shampoo and conditioner formulated for color treated hair. To retain the richness and depth when coloring grey hair, use a pigmented conditioner between processes. Biolage Earth Tones, Aveda, and ARTec all make a great pigmented conditioner.

Related Pages

Hair Color Article Index

Detailed information on the chemistry of hair coloring.

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