I've been coloring my hair for about 7 years by myself

by Megan Moore
(Boca Raton)

Most recent

All of those times it has come out the way I wanted it - and I usually used different products out of the box. Recently, and I don't know if it's because I am getting older and my body is changing, or if I'm just buying the wrong products, but it NEVER comes out nice anymore.

It either comes out orange, green or gray. If i use something 'neutral' or 'natural' it comes out orangey. If I use something 'ashy' it comes out green or gray. The last time i had my hair colored, it turned out OK but definately not $200 worth. I honestly don't care if it doesn't turn out the exact shade, as long as it's not orange or gray.

The stores around me are Sallys, Walgreens, etc. Nothing fancy. I've been to Sallys for advice, and god bless them they try so hard but it never turns out nice.

The picture I have attached is most recent. Even though my hair pulled back, you can see the orange-ness on top (that I did to try and lighten my roots when it grew out) and the color that the colorist did on the bottom. Ideally I'd like it that light again.

I've tried so many times to understand the color wheels and pigments and low lying colors and natural and neutral and levels and shades, but I really have no clue. Everytime I would ask the hairdresser, they would give me a different answer.

I believe I am a level 6 or 7 naturally, and I can upload a picture of what I believe to be my natural color, it is a little ashy... I just don't understand why it never turns out nice anymore! I get so frustrated and haven't had a pretty hair color in so long...

Please let me know, I appreciate every response!

Thanks

Megan

Comments for
I've been coloring my hair for about 7 years by myself

Click here to add your own comments

Jul 21, 2009

natural ash...
by: Michelle

Natural ash is the color that you would LEAST expect to get orange/yellow tones from, but they are there and can be stronger than the underlying pigments of any other natural shades. Here's more about underlying pigments and the chemistry of hair coloring.

As you mature, your natural haircolor will continue to darken and the underlying pigments will intensify. The pigments in a blonde haircolor formula just aren't strong enough to neutralize that orange/yellow underlying pigment out.

So your options are to settle for a darker, warmer blonde, or to use bleach to lighten out that yellow/orange underlying pigment and then tone the hair throughout with a semi-permanent. That is the route I go and I have the very same natural dark ash blonde (level 6 or 7) hair color. Here's some information on bleaching hair and hair toner.

When you lighten, treat only the regrowth and the brassy sections from your recent colorings. The ends should be left out completely if they are already the color you want to achieve. Except at the very last, I would run the toner through the ends after it's half-way processed.

Hope this helps,
Michelle
Editor

X Close Editor

Jul 21, 2009
Rating

Submitted by: Michelle

Title

Comment
Natural ash is the color that you would LEAST expect to get orange/yellow tones from, but they are there and can be stronger than the underlying pigments of any other natural shades. Here's more about underlying pigments and the <a href="http://www.style-hair-magazine.com/hair-coloring.html" target="_blank">chemistry of hair coloring</a>. As you mature, your natural haircolor will continue to darken and the underlying pigments will intensify. The pigments in a blonde haircolor formula just aren't strong enough to neutralize that orange/yellow underlying pigment out. So your options are to settle for a darker, warmer blonde, or to use bleach to lighten out that yellow/orange underlying pigment and then tone the hair throughout with a semi-permanent. That is the route I go and I have the very same natural dark ash blonde (level 6 or 7) hair color. Here's some information on <a href="http://www.style-hair-magazine.com/bleaching-hair.html" target="_blank">bleaching hair</a> and <a href="http://www.style-hair-magazine.com/hair-toner.html" target="_blank">hair toner</a>. When you lighten, treat only the regrowth and the brassy sections from your recent colorings. The ends should be left out completely if they are already the color you want to achieve. Except at the very last, I would run the toner through the ends after it's half-way processed. Hope this helps, Michelle Editor

Cancel Delete Delete & Ban

throbber Updating Comments page...

Jul 21, 2009

It helps soo much!
by: Anonymous

I appreciate your time to answer my questions - I do have a couple more though.

Believe me when I say, the last time I was at the hair dresser, she didn't do a very good job at explaining what she was doing or what *i* should be doing if I wanted to color at home - I asked so many times and she'd just beat around the bush.

Anyway, a couple big questions are; When i do go into Sallys, I just don't know what to buy. I think a big part of my coloring coming out so wrong are the products and colors I buy. I'm more than confident to do my hair at home, but If I knew what color and products to buy I would so greatful. Ideally, I would like a marilyn monroe blonde, very light - i also like a little yellowy like the picture of the girl on the "Hair Color" photo on the webpage. I don't have a specific color in mind, as long as it looks normal!

I now know not to pull the complete color through all my hair, but my big concern at first was hoping it would match.

If you could recommend some colors and brands from Sallys, I would be forever greatful and would love to post pictures!

So many kind regards,

Megan

Jul 22, 2009

All of these questions! I still have more!
by: Megan

I also was wondering, what is the difference between Lightening hair and bleaching hair?

I'm almost there!!!

Megan

Jul 22, 2009

Two seprate steps
by: connie

It appears to me you need to pre-bleach you darker hair,using a product such as Wellite cream bleach using one or two of the activator packets provided in the box,and a 20 or slightly higher volume peroxide.Hair must be carefully divided in small sections at the scalp and applied from the root down to the blonde you already have,NOT ON THE BLONDE hair...... Time the bleach as suggested and dont rush it..leave it until there is barely and yellow left .You can leave it probably 30 to 45 mins.then wipe off a small piece to check the lightness...A VERY LOW amount of heat will help it lighten a little quicker.When lightened to the correct level,Rinse and shampoo until all the product is out..Comb out,dry and use a pale blonde shade of toner .If enough of the yellow tone is bleached out,you should be able to use an extra light baby blond or a pale nat.blonde..When done you can condition and style...Best luck to you...And let us know....

Jul 23, 2009

Ok - So here's what I've come up with
by: Megan.. Again

I think i might have it. Here's my plan.. let me know if it sounds good!!!!

I'm going to do a Clairol "instant whip" lightener on my roots and the orangey color. it says it's a "Gentle lightener for up to 5 Levels of lift". So i'll check that every few minutes until it reaches a pale blonde.

after that, i will go over those same areas with a Clairol "Born Blonde Toner Non Peroxide Semi-Permanent Toner". and again, check that every few minutes.

Does that sound correct?

I'm getting excited!

Megan

Jul 24, 2009

the plan :)
by: Michelle

Hi Megan, I looked at the Clairol Instant Whip lightener. Not really sure what's in it or whether it's a true bleach. It may work, but to answer your question about the difference between bleach and lightener, 'lightener' is considered a permanent haircolor formula that lightens the hair and tones at the same time. (sometimes called a high-lift color)

'Bleach' is (most often) a powder product, which when mixed with peroxide, strips the pigment out of your hair and leaves it in it's raw state without any toning. So bleaching is where you will actually SEE the underlying pigment colors. It is strictly lifting action.

The 'lighteners' are lifting and toning all at the same time, trying to fight the underlying pigments. Many times neither the lifting or the toning are strong enough to combat those stubborn brassy hues. But because these formulas have lots of blue pigments in them (to neutralize the yellow/orange), if they get on any hair that has already been stripped of its pigments (i.e., previous blonde coloring), the blue pigments will turn that hair grey/green.

So after that longwinded explanation, my point is, bleach is best for the result you're trying to achieve.

Your plan with the toner sounds just right. Pull it through to the ends just in the last 10 minutes or so (less if the toner is an ash base) to ensure an even color throughout.

It's clear that you did your homework and came up with an informed plan which makes me really happy because it's exactly why I created this site! I know people can just go to the hair salon to get their hair colored. Heck, I used to be the person they came to! But the fact is that many are capable of doing their own hair coloring at home and should be able to get a bit of help when they need it. Your stylists were purposely vague, guarding their 'secrets' which is natural, I suppose, after all, your hair is her business, her livelihood. I used to feel the same protectiveness of my knowledge. But people are going to color their hair at home, regardless of whether they have help or not, and I've heard enough bad advice from well-meaning pharmacy clerks working in the haircolor aisle to know that, without some professional intervention, home hair colorists are at the mercy of the uneducated masses. (shiver) So I share. :)

Let us know how it works out for you!

Cheers,
Michelle

X Close Editor

Jul 24, 2009
Rating

Submitted by: Michelle

Title

Comment
Hi Megan, I looked at the Clairol Instant Whip lightener. Not really sure what's in it or whether it's a true bleach. It may work, but to answer your question about the difference between bleach and lightener, 'lightener' is considered a permanent haircolor formula that lightens the hair and tones at the same time. (sometimes called a high-lift color) 'Bleach' is (most often) a powder product, which when mixed with peroxide, strips the pigment out of your hair and leaves it in it's raw state without any toning. So bleaching is where you will actually SEE the underlying pigment colors. It is strictly lifting action. The 'lighteners' are lifting and toning all at the same time, trying to fight the underlying pigments. Many times neither the lifting or the toning are strong enough to combat those stubborn brassy hues. But because these formulas have lots of blue pigments in them (to neutralize the yellow/orange), if they get on any hair that has already been stripped of its pigments (i.e., previous blonde coloring), the blue pigments will turn that hair grey/green. So after that longwinded explanation, my point is, bleach is best for the result you're trying to achieve. Your plan with the toner sounds just right. Pull it through to the ends just in the last 10 minutes or so (less if the toner is an ash base) to ensure an even color throughout. It's clear that you did your homework and came up with an informed plan which makes me really happy because it's exactly why I created this site! I know people can just go to the hair salon to get their hair colored. Heck, I used to be the person they came to! But the fact is that many are capable of doing their own hair coloring at home and should be able to get a bit of help when they need it. Your stylists were purposely vague, guarding their 'secrets' which is natural, I suppose, after all, your hair is her business, her livelihood. I used to feel the same protectiveness of my knowledge. But people are going to color their hair at home, regardless of whether they have help or not, and I've heard enough bad advice from well-meaning pharmacy clerks working in the haircolor aisle to know that, without some professional intervention, home hair colorists are at the mercy of the uneducated masses. (shiver) So I share. :) Let us know how it works out for you! Cheers, Michelle

Cancel Delete Delete & Ban

throbber Updating Comments page...

Jul 24, 2009

Great!!!
by: Megan

This all sounds so great.. I think another place where I'm getting confused is different words meaning the same thing...

So instead of using the instant whip, I'll try the Wellite Creme Lightener... however, some people have said theyve used 20 volume creme bleach with it, but i can't find that anywhere.. so the next thing is Salon Care 20 volume clear developer which is peroxide..

I'm not going to go ahead with it until I'm completely sure! Don't want to mix the wrong stuff and burn a whole in my scalp! oh dear!

Enjoying sitting by the pool and reading your website.. I've been on here for about 5 days straight. Loving it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Megan

Jul 24, 2009

clarification
by: Michelle

Ya, mix up the bleach powder and 20 volume peroxide, then apply to the regrowth and the brassy section. There is no such thing as 20 volume cream bleach so whoever told you that was confused or just referring to bleach powder mixed with 20vol peroxide to make a creamy bleach mixture, which is what you will get.

Let it process for a good long while. It takes time to go through the lifting stages. You may want to cover your hair (very lightly) with a shopping bag, just to keep some of the scalp heat in and help the bleach do it's thing. This also prevents it from drying out in areas, which renders the mixture ineffective. Just make sure not to squash the ends down onto the bleach mixture when you put the bag on. Use a small hair clip to secure the bag loosely underneath.

You may want to try out the toner on a small section underneath to begin with, just to make sure it's going to give you a tone you want and not go too dark.

Have fun!
Michelle

P.S. Glad you're enjoying the site! :)

Jul 26, 2009

wellite
by: connie

Wellite cream bleach is just thAT. It is a blue liquid that you can mix the powder activator with using a 20 volume peroxide..This is a safe bleach to use on the scalp..Now Get ur done.......and show us the results...Luck,Connie.

Jul 26, 2009

Oh dear!
by: Megan

But i'm still scared!

Once my roots grow out more, it looks horrible, and I realize I don't have enough $$ to afford the salon visit, I'll do it.. that'll be in a few days.. until then I'll probably have more questions after I do more research!

I'm looking forward to it, and if it comes out well (i'm sure it will!) I will be so incredibly happy and tell people all about it!

The only thing is.....

My father-in-law is the one that actually puts it on the hair............ he's been coloring his wife's hair for about 20 years and is damn good... that's another thing i'm scared of.. he can get that bottle applicator and do it perfectly whereas I have not done it much.. any tips for him? lol!

Megan

Jul 27, 2009

Well... I did it...
by: Megan

I used the Wellite stuff with 20 vol developer...

it's white on the scalp... terribly white/blonde..

Should I still use the Wella Toner T10?

I have to go to work tomorrow, I am so embarassed :(

Megan........

Jul 28, 2009

don't need ash
by: Michelle

Hi Megan,

If it's bleached past the point of pale yellow, then you don't need any ash in your toner. That would give you a grey result. A semi-permanent in a neutral shade should work fine. Even maybe veeeery slightly warm to prevent too much drabbing. (you can mix a neutral and a warm) You may want to try a level 9 instead of a 10 as there is a bit more pigment in a level 9. Maybe one of each.. a level 9 neutral and a level 10 warm.

Apply it roots to ends from the beginning. Watch it closely while it processes. (trying your mixture on a small test strand at the back is a good idea to make sure you've got it right).

Remember that haircoloring is an art as much as a science. Mostly predictable, but at the mercy of differing product formulations and the human element. You have to go with the flow and adjust your plan according to the results you get.

All the best,
Michelle

Oct 29, 2009

too dark
by: Anonymous

help was a lighter brown, i wanted a dark rish rown ut got witch black will head and shoulders work if i used every day?