Color Back

From Light to Dark Hair

A color back is the process of taking an artificial blonde back to a darker shade.

There are a few essential steps for getting an even, natural looking color that will last.

This article will take you through the process so you can avoid any mishaps.

A blue/grey/green cast is a common outcome with a color back process.

The blonde hair is over-porous and will absorb the blue pigments in the color formula moreso than the red and yellow. So adding some of those warm pigments back to the hair is important.

Solutions For a Successful Color Back

The two things you need to do a color back process the professional way...

1) POROSITY EQUALIZER

Use a porosity equalizer (like Joico - Professional H.K.P.) before coloring.

These products penetrate into the hair strand, filling up the most porous areas with conditioning agents. The result is a more uniform color because the hair strand absorbs the pigments more evenly.

2) FILLER

Fill the lightened hair with a warm pigment (i.e., orange/yellow), before coloring.

When the hair was lightened, it was stripped of its natural underlying pigment. Those pigments are necessary to balance out the color in a darker shade.

So we replace them with artificial pigments before doing the actual color process. This will help neutralize the blue pigments absorbed by the color when it is applied, and even everything out.

WHAT TO USE

Non-permanent (no ammonia) colors or stains are best to use as fillers. So look for an orange toned semi-permanent or demi-permanent color. A permanent color (even a copper orange) contains strong blue pigments which the porous areas of your hair will be most likely to absorb. That's what will give you muddy results.

Filler for medium to dark brown finished color

Either of these options would work. For extremely processed hair or if you are going from blonde to very dark, go for the Auburn. If your hair is in fairly good condition and/or if the finished color you're trying to achieve is medium-dark, use the Golden shade...

Clairol Natural Instincts Haircolor, Spiced Tea Light Auburn 16

Clairol Natural Instincts Haircolor, Pecan Medium Golden Brown 18

Allow the color filler to process for up to 20 minutes. Leave it on for less time (say, 10 minutes) if the finished color result you want to achieve is more neutral or ash. Leave it on for closer to 20 minutes if the finished result you want to achieve is warm (i.e., golden, auburn, red).

Filler for dark blonde/light brown finished color...

A warm, light strawberry shade like Clairol Natural Instincts Saharan Rose has just the right pigments to provide a light fill. When the finished color you're after is a lighter shade of brown, or dark blonde, you need to be careful about using too dark of a filler.

This color can be allowed to process for the full recommended time. The warm pigments are subtle, but necessary before you add a neutral shade.

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The color you end up with after having it filled is NOT attractive. In fact, it can be downright garish! Especially if you're using a filler for dark hair.

Don't worry, it's supposed to be vibrant. Remember, we're trying to mimic the color of your underlying pigment (learn more about underlying pigment).

Rinse the filler well and apply the finishing color immediately.

FINISHING COLOR

Either permanent or semi-permanent will work for the finished color. Permanent is better if you've gone a bit overboard with the filler and need a formula with a bit more oomph to neutralize out more of the orange. Otherwise, go with semi(or demi)-permanent.

Semi-permanent is deposit only, which is exactly what you need to get your hair darker. There's no need for the ammonia and peroxide contained in permanent colors when all you want to do is deposit a darker color. So semi-permanent is always my personal choice for that purpose.

Semi-permanent pigment is also more likely to fade, and you may find that to be a good thing. Especially on extremely porous hair which can end up going darker than expected.

If it fades, simply re-apply as needed.

Or prevent color loss by using a colored shampoo and conditioner like John Frieda Brilliant Brunette. These special pigmented cleansers and conditioners deposit a slight color on your hair which deepens your shade and keeps your color looking fresh.

RELATED ARTICLES

• Hair coloring chemistry
• Brunette hair color gallery
• Red hair color gallery
• Reconstructing hair treatments

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