Curly Hair Is Finally Back In Style!

Roller Setting Techniques To Create Voluptuous Curls

Bouncy, curly hair is easy to create when you have the right tools and know how to use them.

You'll find detailed instructions on setting hair. Learn exactly how to wrap and secure rollers for shiny, beautiful curls.

We look at several types of roller, plus how and when to use them to achieve specific results.

Wrapping Tips | Basic Wrap | Spiral Wrap | Securing Your Rollers

Wrapping Techniques

There are three elements that will affect the finished look...

• How the hair is wound onto the roller -- The way hair is wound determines your curl formation (spiral, etc.)
  
  
• How the roller sits -- How the roller ends up sitting in relation to the scalp determines volume and direction. (see photo below)
  
  
• Use of products -- Where there is more product, there is more hold. (See our list of recommended curly hair products) Customize your curl by spraying just the ends for curl only on the bottom or spray only the roots and underneath for volume, but straight ends (you'd want to use rollers at least 1-1/2 inches in diameter, preferably larger)

The position the roller ends up at the scalp is a direct result of the angle at which you comb your section before wrapping. For maximum volume, sections need to be over-directed, which means held slightly forward so they will roll down to rest upon their own base.

All of the top sections in these pincurls are wrapped so they come to rest "on base". Wrap sections on base where you want the most volume by combing them straight upward or slightly forward before rolling.

Wrap the lower sections "off base" by combing them out 0°-45° from the scalp before rolling.

Think about the way you want your hair to fall when you're planning your curly hair style. I like to start in the crown and bangs and work my way down. Also think about direction, do you want the curls coming toward your face or away from it? Place the roller on whichever side you've chosen, and wrap from there.

Basic Wrap

Here's a step-by-step guide to creating a basic roller set...

• Part off a section the same length and diameter of your roller -- Over-direct the hair as you comb the section smooth.
  
  
• Spray the entire section with setting product -- Be sure to get underneath and spray the roots in the volume zone, then comb through the hair once more before wrapping the section.
  
  
• Smooth the roller onto the ends and wrap it down -- Make sure the ends stay tucked under. This is where perm end papers can come in handy, but the tail of your comb is the best tool for this, just slide it along the top of the roller and give a little sweep to direct the ends into place.
  
  
• Roll the section down to the scalp and secure -- Hold the hair taut while rolling to prevent a sloppy, sagging set. If you find the sides of your section are loose, increase the tension by moving the roller from side to side while wrapping.

Don't be careless with it, the idea is to reshape the hair into a shiny, well defined curl. If your set is thrown together haphazardly, your finished look won't be something you'll want to be remembered for.

Spiral Wrapping

• Use long bendy rollers -- Hold the roller straight up and down and start rolling near one end, wrapping at least once around the ends to ensure they are tucked under and secured.
  
  
• Roll upwards, holding the hair taut and wrapping smoothly
  
  
• Twist sections of hair before wrapping for a different look -- Curly hair takes many forms, experiment by smoothing and twisting sections alot or a little for more voluptuous waves.

Set curls by either allowing the hair to air dry OR using a diffuser or hood dryer. If you use heat, allow the hair to cool completely when the set is dry before taking out the rollers. Use the cool shot on your blow dryer to speed up the process.

When removing rollers, gently run your fingers along the hair behind the roller to keep the curly hair smooth and separated. Then leave them undisturbed for a few minutes to cool.

Securing Techniques

The tool and method you use to secure your rollers varies...

Small metal or plastic clips are best for securing any kind of hollow roller, including pincurls.

Velcro or (Self-grip) rollers are great for creating curly hair. However, they usually need to be secured by clipping, especially when used on long or thick hair.

Place the clip underneath the roller where the hair starts to curve away from the scalp and try not to clamp down over the top of the section of hair at all, just underneath, to prevent unsightly dents and marks on the hair. If a section is heavy and drooping, secure both sides of the roller.

Hot rollers can be secured with plastic jaw clamps, which are very inexpensive and easy to find. Because of their weight, they may not clamp up tightly against your scalp, and may even sag a little.

Hot rollers are not the best choice for creating curly hair styles on fine hair because of their weight and their lack of support at the root.

Try Velcro's if your hair is fine, unless you want a loose, wavy effect. In that case, hot rollers would work well.

To secure rag rollers, make sure you leave 3 or more inches of fabric free at each end of the strip and once the hair is wrapped (either spiral or basic), bring the ends of the fabric together and tie loosely. Be careful not to tug at the hair, but do maintain some tension on the root for volume.

Securing bendies is much the same as rag rollers, except easier because all you have to do is bend the top inch or two over toward the back or top of the section.

If you don't feel there is enough tension, make sure the section is rolled all the way to the scalp and bend the top over backwards right where the hair meets the scalp. Play around with it a little and you'll feel when you've got the right position.

In all cases, when securing your roller, keep in mind that any areas of pressure, kinks, or snags from clips or other rollers will show up in your finished curly hair style.

Take a minute to make sure your set is tidy, especially in the top sections and around the face. Once it's set in there, good, bad or ugly, you're stuck with it.

Related Pages

• Tips on combating frizzy hair.
• Styling techniques to create smooth waves or coils in naturally curly hair styles.
• Curly hair styling products
• Try new hair styles and colors on your own photo.

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